Good morning! I’m writing today from a fantastic Adirondack chair in the sun at Devil’s Backbone Brewpub. Barnum and I got here around 6:00 yesterday evening, and we’ve had an awesome stay. It’s a huge property that feels more like a resort than a brewery. They have indoor and outdoor restaurants and bars, many fire pits, a big grassy field, and a stage for events. The coolest part is that it’s all surrounded by Virginia’s Blue Ridge mountains.
They sent a free shuttle up to the trailhead to pick us up and drive us the 5 miles down the mountain to the brewery. We headed straight into the pub for beers and dinner. I had a Vienna Lager and a pulled pork sandwich with fries, followed by some really delicious chicken wings. It was all top notch. We paid our checks and refilled our glasses before playing a couple games of cornhole.
Once the bar was shutting down and most of the other customers had gone home, I set up my sleeping pad under a nearby pavilion. It had outlets to charge my phone, a faucet with potable water, and lightning fast wifi. I joked that it was the best campsite I’d had all trip. I even streamed a movie before falling asleep!
They also offer a hiker breakfast in the mornings for only $5. I’ll hang here until breakfast is served, then I’ll catch another free shuttle back to the trail. In my opinion, this place was well worth the stop. All of the staff has been incredibly nice. I caught a few funny looks from some of the other patrons who had clearly showered this week, but some others were really friendly and interested in the trail. If I’m ever in the Roseland, Virginia area again I will definitely stop by.
I’ll be back on the trail in a couple of hours, and it’s only twentyish more miles to Waynesboro. I haven’t yet decided if I’ll get there tonight or tomorrow morning. Either way, only a couple more days until Shenandoah National Park, and not much longer until West Virginia and the halfway point.
This post is coming to you from Damascus, VA. I’ve spent the last two days here at the annual Trail Days festival. It’s a huge celebration of former thru-hikers, aspiring thru-hikers, and all sorts of other A.T. enthusiasts. There’s been music, entertainment, a vendor village, free food, and even a thru-hiker parade through town. Good times for all!!
I crossed the Tennessee/Virginia state line on Friday, which makes it three states under my belt thus far. Virginia is by far the longest state on the trail, so I won’t be seeing another state line for at least a month. It’s been a couple of weeks since I’ve had a chance to post anything, so I’ll do my best to share the most memorable moments.
CARLOS EL BADIDO
While staying at Uncle Johnny’s hostel in Erwin, TN we were treated to a little complimentary entertainment by the boys in blue. To make a long story short-ish, a local gentlemen named Carlos showed up at the hostel one afternoon with a heavily intoxicated hiker. Apparently the two had linked up somehow a few days earlier, and had been cruising around the town on some sort of wild bender ever since. They had returned to the hostel to retrieve the belongings of the spun-out hiker, who had checked into the hostel 4 days earlier, before wandering off with Carlos. Somewhere in the process of packing up the hikers belongings, we all heard yelling coming from the driveway of the hostel. We spun around quickly to see Carlos held at gunpoint by an Erwin police officer. In Carlos’ hands were two trekking poles, which he had apparently picked up as the officer was approaching, in an effort to blend in. As fifteen or twenty of us thru-hikers watched in excitement from the front porch, the officer kept his gun pointed at Carlos and demanded that he get on the ground and don’t move until his backup arrived. It was at this point that the following exchange occurred:
Officer: (holding Carlos at gunpoint) “God damnit Carlos, we been friends for too long, don’t make me do this!”
Carlos: “Well shoot me then damnit!”
Uncle Johnny: (hostel owner, walking up the front steps) “Entertainment is free here at Uncle Johnny’s!”
Four other police cars arrived shortly after, and detained both Carlos and the shit-faced hiker. It was at this time we learned that Carlos was being arrested for grand theft auto; it turns out that they had stolen the PT Cruiser that they had been whipping around town in for the past 3 days. It all made for a very exciting evening…
MURPHY THE A.T. PUP
Just outside of Erwin, I had the great pleasure of meeting Murphy, the now famous thru-hiking Australian Shepherd puppy. A story about a hiker finding the 8 week old puppy and deciding to carry her with him to Maine had recently gone viral on social media, and my mom sent me a link to the story, asking if I had met the dog and its owner yet. As it turns out the story on social media wasn’t completely true, but Murphy is stupid cute, and she is indeed being carried to Maine.
GOOD FOOD AND GREAT COMPANY
My wonderful parents came up one Sunday evening to treat us to a night off the trail in a cabin near Roan Mountain, Tennessee. They rented an awesome little house on a river right near the trail, and brought up tons of beer, food, and games to play. They picked up a few friends and I from the trail around 2 PM and shuttled us down to the cabin. We feasted on pasta and homemade meatballs with sauce, chips and guacamole, lemon pound cake, and many a Fat Tires. We watched a couple of movies and played some Catch Phrase before enjoying a warm bed for the night. We had a big breakfast in the morning and got back on the trail around 10:00 AM. It was awesome to see my parents, and a treat to have a hearty meal and a bed for the night.
HIKING THE ROAN HIGHLANDS
The stretch of trail through the Roan Highlands was some of my favorite hiking on the trail so far. It crossed several wide open balds and offered dramatic views. We took our time crossing the balds, and stopped a few times to shoot the shit and enjoy a beer. The weather was great, and it made for one of my favorite days on trail thus far.
LOUNGING AT OVERMOUNAIN
We took a short day to make sure we could spend a night at Overmountain Shelter. It’s one of the better known shelters on the trail, and for good reason. It’s a big red converted barn, which sleeps over twenty hikers. It has two stories, amazing views, and tons of flat grass for tenting. We showed up early and lounged around in the grass all afternoon, snacking and napping and talking about nonsense. A local couple even showed up with trail magic, laying out fresh fruit and cookies and nuts on a picnic blanket in front of the shelter. It was an awesome night, and we all took our time getting out the following morning.
Trail Days has been a really good time. Some of the highlights for me were strolling the vendor village and picking up a couple of new pieces of gear, walking in the parade, and being invited for cheeseburgers and moonshine in the backyard of some Damascus residents. That white lightning is the real deal! We also met triple crowner Chimp and his wife Tipsy at a pub yesterday. They bought us beers and hung out to talk trails for a while. Awesome folks.
I’ll be packing up and walking back to the trail this afternoon. The couple of days off have been really great, but I’m ready to cover some more ground. I’ll be walking through the Grayson Highlands in the next couple of days, so you can expect some wild pony pics in my next post. The 1/4 way mark is within sight!
I was really excited to get into the Smokies, because even though I grew up only a few hours away I had never visited the park before. The Appalachian Trail follows the North Carolina/Tennessee border through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park for seventy some miles. The weather was ideal and the trails were both well made and scenic. I always enjoy visiting the national parks, and this was no exception. Here are some highlights from my four days in the park:
Hiking through the park you’re constantly awarded with breathtaking vistas. The trail follows high ridge lines with panoramic views, and a couple of short side trails lead to fire/observation towers where you can get an even better look around.
As with most National Parks, the hiking trails inside GSMNP are very well-built and easy to travel. Long gentle traverses and wide sweeping switchbacks make climbing up and over mountains unbelievably easy.
MAGIC AT NEWFOUND GAP.
About halfway through the park, A.T. hikers cross Newfound Gap. It’s a major road that crosses through the park, and I get the feeling that most park visitors never step foot off of it. When I got to the gap, there was a baptist group hosting some trail magic; cold sodas, candy bars, chips, cookies, and brownies. I was tired and hungry and sick of all the food in my pack, so this was greatly appreciated!
Max Patch is a high grassy bald just north of the park. The mountaintop was originally cleared for cattle some many years ago, and now it’s maintained as a bald. It offers incredible panoramic views, and it’s a great place to lounge in the sun. I got there around 9:00 AM, made a cup of coffee and hung out on the bald for a couple of hours.
STRAWBERRIES AND BLOODHOUNDS.
Another bit of trail magic came at the Deer Park Shelter, just a few miles south of Hot Springs, North Carolina. I was staying there for the night before heading into town the next morning. Around 7:00 P.M., a guy showed up at the shelter with two bloodhounds on leashes. I was excited to see the dogs as they’re always nice to have around on the trail, but I was even more excited when he pulled a bucket of fresh picked strawberries out of his backpack. He put them down on the table and told us to enjoy. I have never eaten so many strawberries…
I hiked into Hot Springs yesterday morning, where a friend picked me up and brought me back to his house in Asheville. I’m hanging here for the weekend, binging on food and movies. He’ll be driving me back to the trail sometime tomorrow. There is a 15 mile section of trail just north of Hot Springs which is closed due to a forest fire that was just recently contained, so it looks like I’ll need to skip that section. I was hoping it would reopen by time I was ready to get back on the trail, but it’s looking like it will remain closed for a few more days.
Enjoying a zero today, and looking forward to getting back on the trail tomorrow. I should be in Erwin, TN in three or four days. More soon!